Monday 24 November 2008

Isarn

Last Monday morning, with bad weather and November blues; with a bank statement reminder that I've spent all my money, and a petulence about not hearing back from a job interview the previous week, I went for a walk. Ostensibly to pick up a parcel, I quickly detoured to those cheering shops on Upper Street, Islington, which warm one's heart. Though the street was deserted and rain-sodden, Ottolenghis was surprisingly busy with people queuing to buy lunch: I could almost taste their salad box which I last caved into in the summer, however I hardened my heart, remembered my wallet and walked on. Fig and Olive was similarly busy and looked warm, cosy and tasty, but again I faced the drizzle and didn't stop.

http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/

This was the weakened state I was in when I walked past Isarn. I mentioned it a few weeks back as an establishment with a tempting lunch set for £6.50 and alluded to credit-crunched Islingtonites. I decided to go undercover and pretend to be one of them. Plus, I couldn't contain my greed any longer.

Only two other tables were occupied and I cheerfully took my seat on a woven leather bench, facing cowprint chairs, and took in the strange foreign musak and Islington Couple, who were talking about The Arts.

I absolutely adore a set menu, most certainly a happy memory from Japan, or France... or even the greasy spoons that do them. Brilliant. I set about the only vegetarian option: a green vegetable curry set. It being absent from the menu I asked if there was any tea? My waiter pointed to the iced tea on the menu. I couldn't be bothered to protest so had that... but I can't believe they had no green or jasmine tea.

Between ordering and being served, I found out I had got the job from the previous week after all and was heady with delight. Imagine! Now lunch could be called a celebration and not a squandering of cash I don't have!

The set arrived in a red and black lacquered box, akin to the Japanese bento boxes, with little segments for each bit of the meal: two crunchy little spring rolls, chilli sauce, green curry, rice and a chunk of watermelon all in their own compartments. I was genuinely surprised by the lack of chopsticks, but again, extreme laziness and pre-occupation with conversation between Islington Couple led me to just use the fork and spoon provided.

The curry was entirely good and and filled with a variety of vegetables, including those alien baby aubergines - not rich and velvety like the large purple ones, but almost watery and crunchy. In a good way. The curry was as hot as it could be without needing to have this in the menu description. In fact, Islington Couple had a moment with a chilli ("burnt my mouth off! hottest chilli I've ever eaten!") which made me avoid any in my curry.

Fruit was a nice idea, but it seemed a pity not to utilise the wonderful fruit denuding techniques they use in thailand, to have spirals of pineapple or fans of mango. Fussy, fussy! The lychee iced tea came with a pretty flower hanging over the edge of the glass, and eyeballs in the bottom. Oh all right, they were peeled lychees.

The Islington Couple continued loudly in their conversation, ("remember the guy in the dress at the Donmar? You went to The Ivy place with him and - whatsername? - he only played gay parts.") so I made a little note to remember the meal by, paid and left. Here is my note:
nice environment, wellbeing, tingly lips, warm face.
http://www.isarn.co.uk/

I sauntered home, accidentally inventing the game of estate-agent-baiting on the way: looking at house prices in the shop window, seeing estate agent faces peeping at me suspiciously... then with growing hope... then half-rising out of their seats, before I hastily retreat. Isarn didn't break the bank, and gave me a warm glimpse of Islington life, but I'm still not in any place to look at the luxury pads of this area!

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