Friday 17 December 2010

mincing one's words

Last week I - belatedly - made my mincemeat.

I absolutely adore suet and would never say a word against it, however I think a mince pie only really benefits from suet when eaten hot. Perhaps I imagine it, but when cold I feel there is a slightly claggy, mouth-coating sensation that I don't think necessarily enhances my enjoyment. It should also be added that I have never said no to a mince pie, so my pedantry is merely whim-shaped; for the sake of doing something *exactly* as I like it. And as I librarian, I don't feel the need to apologise for this.

Well, there are my prejudices - for this year at least - and the justification for a wonderful suet-free version. Nigella's, in fact.

Having rather poo-pooed* the idea of making mince pies in 'How to eat'**, Nigella then does a volte face in her next book, ('Domestic goddess') putting the mincemeat recipe second as "I thought I'd make you want to have it". Interestingly, the pastry recipe is the same in her later 'Feast' - so good it needs no update. I agree.

(For completists: despite having devoured every book the lady has written, I drew the line at her Christmas book so can't vouch for any mince pie polemic therein.)

I thoroughly enjoyed making the pastry - no doubt unconsciously looking every bit like my mother, Mrs I., as I banged about with flour and rolling pin - feeling like a woman fulfilled as I used the homemade mincemeat. And I hope my lovely colleagues enjoy the rich, nutty, alcohol-tinted result, in their raggedy carriage of pastry.

In other culinary Christmas news, here is a link to an article about deep fried Christmas cake, courtesy of Bertie Blue. Would I eat this? Absolutely!
Would you?



*this term looks strange typed out: if it is the spelling that is wrong, please correct me - however, the word itself stays. It feels both comedic and appropriate.

** "Mince pies, I feel, are a bit like Christmas pudding: you may as well buy in." p.68 'How to eat'.

Friday 10 December 2010

soho dreams

There are a couple of coffee shops on my soho-places-to-visit list. And I like nothing better than striking items off a list.

Milk bar (sister to flat white - excuse me feminising the inanimate) on Bateman street calls its siren song.

One of my Soho fantasies is taking breakfast at Maison Bertaux on Greek Street - possibly wearing a cloche hat, certainly reading something by one of the Bloomsbury set. Yes, I mock; no, I repent not.

With less romance, Fernandez and Wells on Beak street is also luring me in with its sweet coffee arms and the tidy, clean lines of its decor. There are three establishments in all: may I suggest that the completists amongst us visit the full set?

And as if Soho wasn't full enough already, now Ottolenghi is opening an eaterie there. It is their fifth, due to debut early next year and sounds excitingly concept-heavy and lacking in finer detail. Exciting for us, perhaps fairly terrifying for those working to complete it right now! Take a look at the delicious foods they are testing:
http://ottolenghi.tumblr.com/