Thursday, 18 April 2013

raising the bread


The delight of soda bread, for those that make it, is how mindlessly easy and quick it is to knock up.

This morning I lay in bed, feverishly debating whether I had enough time to have a swim before work.  I then debated many other things, equally feverishly, until I was out of time.  Just before jumping in the shower though, despite the late hour, I knocked up a loaf of bread and put it in the oven.  Not really a time-saving feature of any morning, but it just goes to show that someone with 5 things on their mind (and an abysmal multi-tasker, at that) can still squeeze in a morning loaf.

Naturally the reason for this speed is the lack of yeast-faff: the ingredients are merely flour, bicarb, salt + buttermilk.  And the method: twirl it around a bit, drop on a tray, cut a cross-shape and bake.  It really is that easy and unskilled: no waiting, no kneading.  I have lost my trusty old recipe so used a James Martin one – chosen for being half-and-half wholemeal / white.  A skirt round the Internet bedazzled me with the many recipes and I’m going to try a few in turn until I land a new favourite. 

Rachel Allen admonishes that you shouldn’t knead soda bread, as this renders it ‘heavy’, and who is going to argue with her?  But I must admit to enjoying a bit of kneading, however early it is: when I have exhausted my inevitable forthcoming pash for making soda loaves, I think I’ll go back to the lovely cold, slow-rise yeasted bread I used to make as a student.  Made up the night before, it just needs an early-morning fist-fight (knead) before baking.  Yes, that is next on the cards.  But for now I am in the thrall of the soda.

And the delight of soda bread for those that EAT it, is… well.  Try it and see.


Wednesday, 17 April 2013

spring has sprung

And this is my heavenly Sunday: a walk to Blackheath, mackerel lunch in the sun, then lounging with a book + espresso. Against advice I didn't don my regular, fastidious factor 50 sun cream ... and of course ended the day with a blush-pink neck!



Lunch was a beautiful wedge of sesame seed bloomer (from Costcutter, of all places) with smoked mackerel flaked over. Alongside was my surprise buy at the farmer's market: a veritable BUSH of celery. I had no idea what to do with it all, but after a couple of these lunches and a sturdy beef stew, I have done it justice and run it into extinction.





Roll on the next sunny weekend!



Tuesday, 9 April 2013

perfect eggs

After a weekend of feasting, and feeling the need for a light, nursery supper, I unintentionally made the most perfect eggs.

Just-done whites, soft-as-melting-butter yolks and a dash of coarse salt. On buttery wholemeal.

The ONLY way to recover from Andy's amazing feast on a Saturday, followed by KK's sublime Sunday roast lamb.

Monday, 21 January 2013

giving up

When I say I am giving up on myself, I mean it in the good way.

'Giving up' as in lunching on the most gross panini imaginable.  Meatballs and cheese!  No lovely vitamins, but boy did it warm me up and cheer me through a boring afternoon of emails.

'Giving up' as in eating the best part of an M&S coffee swiss roll in one sitting.  Because I haven't baked a cake in forever, and it looked Quite Nice.

And 'giving up' as in not being able to face pasta again, then remembering my friend Sarah making oven baked risotto carbonara from a Delia recipe.  So I made more than I needed and ate it straight out of the baking dish, which was swaddled in a tea towel and cradled in my lap.  As I listened to the FIRST episode of a NEW series of 'In and out of the kitchen' from radio 4.  I was delirious with joy.

Despite taking longer to cook than the 15 short minutes for linguine carbonara, this risotto somehow feels a little more leisurely and relaxing to put together.  The proper Delia recipe is below, however I was cooking from memory so veered from her genius.  If you would like the quantities for one person, then this is what I did:


  • Preheat your oven to around 160 degrees, pop in a baking dish to warm.
  • Put half a tub of pancetta cubes in a medium saucepan to crisp up.  Chuck in a washed and thinly shredded leek, and one finely diced stick of celery (about 2 weeks old in this case, but don't feel inadequate if you only have a fresh one): cook low until soft.  Bung the last bit of butter from the pat: melt.  
  • Now add in 4 oz risotto rice and stir until 'slicked with butter' seems to be the writer's term of choice. Put this mix in your pre-heated baking dish, pour over 420 (very ish) ml marigold stock and return the dish to the oven.  Yes, without covering the dish.
  • After 20 minutes, remove dish from oven, look disappointed at the thin liquidy contents, and fret it won't turn out very well after all.  Add in enough parmesan to make you smile, stir + return to the oven.  
  • In another 15 minutes remove from oven and DELIGHT over how good and crusty and perfectly cooked it is!  Whisk together an egg and a splash of full fat milk, mix into the risotto, and leave to stand for two minutes.  

Serve with some steamed cauliflower, to make up for not having any vegetables at lunchtime.




The proper Delia recipe from the lady herself:


Addenda: I was initially defeated by the quantity. I hope you are too.  Having seconds in lieu of washing up is just the kind of exchange we all enjoy.

Sunday, 23 December 2012

spicy soup

KK made soup for lunch. She declared it was butternut squash and something about us 'weeping' it was so good.

Much to her annoyance, a spice lid accident caused it to end up Really Quite Spicy. But it was perfect for warming us on a damp day, and even the ginger two enjoyed it.

2 onions sweated in butter
I just ADORE saying that.
Add diced butternut squash (+ diced apple if it grabs you) & swish about for a few mins
Add 3 tbsp flour, 2 tsp curry powder, grate of nutmeg
Around 750 ml chicken stock, 375 ml milk, zest & juice of 1 orange. Simmer 20 mins or until veg is cooked.
Blend and season

Feed the masses.




Saturday, 22 December 2012

perfect day

This is the kind of morning I envisaged, when I decided to make the most of living so centrally.

I literally bounced out of bed at 7am - the first time in months I have had such enthusiasm for the day - and after a few chores headed straight out into Covent Garden. The Christmas lights are so jolly this year and, unusually, they were on when I woke up, cheering the December gloom.

Neal's Yard cheese shop didn't have the customary out-the-door queue it has recently sported, but the 8 or 10 staff were all busy. So many people coming in for whole boxes of their pre-ordered Christmas cheese! And the counter was, as always, bulging with as yet untasted treasure. I don't think any of the men in my life will feel put out by knowing in advance that they have Stitchelton for Christmas gifts this year: in fact, I think it will only heighten their ardour for such a treat. It is made from unpasteurised milk and is a little more creamy, or sweet, than most blue cheeses.

The Stitchelton looked so good in one big piece, that I ordered a quarter of the whole cheese. More than 2.5 kg. Whilst it was being packed in a manger full of hay (ie packed in a box with straw, to help keep the temperature constant), I nipped round the corner to Monmouth coffee. Seven dials is an absolute delight right now; quite the prettiest corner of London! I digress... Monmouth was EMPTY which suited me very well: I chatted with a wonderful coffee-lady and we did a couple of tastings to help decide. There is possibly nothing finer than tasting coffees in the warm, on a dark, wet day, knowing an enormous cheese is waiting for you. Nothing. Finer.

I chose Fazenda do Serrado (Brasil) as it will suit best being drunk both with or without milk, and is more full bodied and chocolatey, which I think suits my family's taste better than the slightly more citrussy fellow I tried.

I swung by Neal's Yard to pick up my cheese, was charmed they remembered my name and order, then headed home to my cosy flat for the best breakfast of 2012 so far: Sobrasada toast with poached eggs and honey. I hear your consternation: yes honey! It was a tip from an esteemed foodie friend, and I just had to try it. The sobrasada was a generous gift from another good friend, who carts it back from Spain despite only having finite space for her own meaty needs!

It's beginning to taste a lot like Christmas.


Saturday, 3 November 2012

late night Lilly

I have so much - SO much - food news to catch up on; some written on my phone app, some on scraps of paper. From an old school night at Mirabelle, to making and decorating a wedding cake, there has been heaps of cooking and much savouring.

I will make a start on it tomorrow. For now I seem to have momentarily stepped back to a life of rolling home late and eating pasta pesto out of a saucepan. Delicious as ever, and wonderfully sluttish in execution!