North road

The wonders of modern technology means that sometimes you don't have to follow hot new restaurants... they follow you.

Having visited Fig in the summer, the gent was added to their email list. A couple of weeks ago they emailed the news that they were opening a new restaurant in Farringdon / Clerkenwell: we went to a drinks reception in the paint-fresh new venue. Then came a missive bearing the irresistible news of 50% off food and wine for their opening week.

The North road menu wasn't online when we booked, but a few days later we were able to peep at the Scandinavian-inspired list of deliciousness - although we questioned just how 'Nordic' it really was. We were accompanied by a couple of friends who had also experienced Fig and were keen to see the bigger, shinier brother.

I gorged on wonderful ox cheeks with pear, Jerusalem artichoke and endive. Then launched into mutton: I will confess my ignorance and admit I thought mutton would only be good in a long, slow-cooked situation. I was wrong. This was mutton loin cooked outside, dark velvety red within and utterly... utterly. To give the full description it came with 'onions in textures, wild cabbage and broth'. It was at the fancy-pantsy end of the scale but cor lummy was it tasty.

I paused, briefly, to taste the gent's scallops and very much enjoyed his 'Norfolk deer' - plus the ensuing, inconclusive debate over why it wasn't called venison. The only complaint around the table was that the food was very slow coming out of the kitchen: we were there about an hour and a half before the main meals arrived (did I get that right, gent?!).

Despite the deliciousness, and the sophisticated tastebuds of our dining companions, we were all frankly frightened by the dessert menu. Paul spoke for us all when he declared he wanted neither another vegetable course, nor breakfast*, and so three rounds of B&BP** and the caramel and liquorice 'in textures' were ordered. Next time I would be braver, or order the cheeses, which were wonderful at Fig.

The decor was fresh and minimal, the lights a bit mesmerising; the bathrooms trendily uni-sex cubicles. I know, it's uncouth to mention such things, but you can tell how far from Hoxton you are by the uni-sexness of things.

I was reminded of Texture in the (slight) Nordic influence; the crisp skin starting nibbles, and of course the all those 'textures' in the menu! Fancy-pantsy would be my final word. Perhaps a little too much 'burnt hay' and 'texture' for my personal liking, and for this reason I preferred the little sister Fig Bistro. But each to their own, and now there is more Fig to go round.

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After all that talk of rich food, you might be in need of a digestif. And to go with your post-prandial coffee how about a peruse of the latest edition of Fire and Knives? I just spotted Tim Hayward tweeting about this - what a social media day it has been! - and now I am trying to find out where I can get my hands on a copy...



Unnecessary notes:
* Jerusalem artichoke and sunflower seeds; organic sheep milk yogurt, scent of fir pine and muesli. There was also 'flavours of woodland'

**as dear Agnes used to call it, in my youth. Bread and butter pudding to those less familiar with my grandmother's household.